Gucci's new creative director Sabato De Sarno: A bold new course for luxury
Gucci is entering a transformative phase under the creative direction of Sabato De Sarno, as he presents his inaugural collection, "Ancora", marking a significant shift for the brand.
De Sarno's collection signifies a departure from Gucci's traditional mature demographic. It embraces a youthful spirit, featuring micro-mini skirts, bejeweled bandeau tops, glossy leather pencil skirts, low-rise jeans, and Y2K-inspired ensembles that make bold fashion statements. The collection is described, in his words, as exuding "a party at the first light of day" and capturing "Getty images of cool people of all ages". This focus on young energy shifts from Alessandro Michele's maximalist and nostalgic approach.
While De Sarno's background might not be as widely recognized in the fashion industry, his importance at Valentino and his new role as a creative director for Gucci showcase his potential. This comes as Kering, Gucci's parent company, has appointed a new CEO, Jean-François Palus, to pilot a grow in Gucci's revenues and position the brand next to competitors like Dior and Hermès.
The shift in Gucci aligns with a broader evolution within the luxury conglomerate founded by François Pinault. Although showing disappointing numbers in it’s third quarter, the company still believes in the Italian brand’s strengths. Gucci, as Kering's flagship brand, plays a pivotal role in the company's pursuit of the global luxury market. Despite the past success under Alessandro Michele and former CEO Marco Bizzarri, the pandemic disrupted Gucci's trajectory, making it De Sarno's responsibility to revitalize the brand.
De Sarno aims to strengthen Gucci's fashion authority while drawing from its rich heritage. His vision embraces a more classic identity. His background at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, and Valentino underscores his appreciation for technical craftsmanship, with a focus on practical skills and a minimalist aesthetic.
The reintroduction of the iconic Jackie bag in a more versatile, soft leather rendition showcases his commitment to refreshing Gucci's classic products. The new creative director’s vision positions Gucci as a timeless luxury icon.
Sabato De Sarno's appointment as Gucci's creative director heralds a new era for the brand. His inaugural collection signifies a shift towards a more youthful and dynamic vision, reflecting the ever-evolving world of fashion. As Gucci embarks on this transformation, the fashion industry eagerly awaits its journey towards becoming a timeless luxury icon.